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Laos

Achtergrondinformatie

Laos is het derde land wat op onze reislijst staat en tevens het minst ontwikkeld en meest raadselachtige land van de drie voormalig Franse Indochinese staten. Een vernietigende koloniale overheersing, alsmede interlokale conflicten en dogmatisch socialisme hebben in de jaren 70 geleid tot een uitstroom van de bevolking met 10%. Nu na 30 jaar veelal afgesloten te zijn van de buitenwereld geniet de geleidelijk groeiende bevolking weer van de vrede, de economische en politieke structuren zijn weer in balans en er worden weer buitenlandse bezoekers toegelaten. Al zullen dit niet grote aantallen zijn vanwege de zeer slechte infrastructuur. Maar dat weerhoudt ons niet om via Cambodja dit land (proberen) binnen te komen.

Omdat er weinig tot geen buitenlandse invloed is geweest biedt Laos reizigers een glimp van het traditionele Zuidoost Aziatische leven. Van de vruchtbare lage landen aan de Mekong rivier tot aan de ruige Annamite hooglanden, reizigers zijn er over eens dat dit land een van de hoogtepunten van Zuidoost Azie is.  

Enkele feitjes

Volledige naam: Lao People's Democratic Republic

Oppervlakte: 236.000 km2

Inwoners: 5,5 miljoen

Hoofdstad: Vientiane (500.000 inw)

Bevolking: 50% Lao Loum (Lowland Lao), 30% Lao Theung (lower-mountain dwellers of mostly proto-Malay or Mon-Khmer descent), 10-20% Lao Sung (Hmong or Mien high-altitude hill tribes) and 10-20% tribal 

Thaise taal: Lao and Lao dialecten (lijkt veel op Thai), 

Religie: 60% Boeddhist, 40% animist en spirituele culten

Staatsvorm: Socialistische republiek

President: Khamtai Siphandon

Premier: Bounyang Volachit

BNP: US$9,7 miljard

BNP per hoofd van de bevolking: US$1700

Jaarlijkse economische groei: 4%

Inflatie: 6%

Belangrijkste industrieën: Rijst, tabak, koffie, tin, hout en opium

Belangrijkste handelspartners: Thailand, Vietnam, Maleisie, Japan

Reizigersinfo

Visas: 15-dagen visas zijn verkrijgbaar voor US$30 bij het Vientiane's Vliegveld en op de International Friendship Bridge bij de Nong Khai grens tussen Laos en Thailand,. Verder kun je bij verschillende ambassades 15 en 30 dagen visas krijgen.

Beste tijd van het jaar

De beste tiid om Laos te bezoeken is tussen november en februari - in deze periode regent het het minst en is het niet te heet. Als je de bergen in gaat kun je ook in mei en juli gaan. De wegen kunnen weggeslagen worden tijdens het regenseizoen, maar dan kun je natuurlijk kiezen voor vervoer over water, de Mekongrivier dus.

Tradities en gebruiken

Festivals in Laos zijn vaak gerelateerd aan de landelijke seizoenen of historische Boeddhistische feestdagen. Het Lunar nieuw jaar begint medio april en het gehele land staat stil en viert feest. Huizen worden schongemaakt, er worden offers gebracht in de wats en iedereen wordt natgegooid met water. Bun Bang Fai (het steen festival) is in mei. Dit is een preboeddhistische feestdag met veel processies, muziek en dans, vergezeld met in vuur staande bamboes met stenen eraan die naar de hemel wijzen om hen regen te sturen. Het That Luang Festival in Vientiane dat een week duurt in november heeft ook een heel repertoire aan vuurwerk, processies met kandelaars en muziek.

Geld en kosten

Valuta: de kip

Relatieve kosten: maaltijden tussen de o,50 en 4 US$

Overnachten tussen de 2.50 en 25 US$

Het verblijf in Vientiane zal het duurst zijn.

The Lao kip is the only legal currency, but Thai baht and US dollars are regularly accepted, particularly in the cities. Often you'll be asked for kip for cheap purchases, baht for mid-range buys, and dollars if you want something expensive. In Vientiane you'll be able to change most major currencies, but in the country you should stick to US dollars or baht - you may also have trouble with travellers' cheques outside the capital. Banks will give you a better rate than moneychangers, and you'll get more for travellers' cheques than cash.

There's no need to tip in Laos, except at upscale restaurants where around 10% is expected. If you're buying things in markets or hiring a vehicle, always bargain; at shops it's usually worth a try. Keep it low-key: Laotians are generally gentle hagglers.

Bezienswaardigheden

Vientiane

The capital city and seat of government sits on a bend in the Mekong River amidst fertile alluvial plains. Despite its chequered past, Vientiane (pronounced 'Wieng Chan' by the locals) is a laid-back city with a number of interesting wats and lively markets. The most important national monument in Laos is Pha That Luang (the Great Sacred Stupa), which is a symbol of both Buddhism and Lao sovereignty. Other sights of interest include Wat Pha Kaew, a former royal temple which is now a museum and Wat Si Saket, the oldest temple in Vientiane. Xieng Khuan is a collection of compelling Buddhist and Hindu sculptures located in a meadow, 24km (15mi) south of Vientiane.

Vientiane has around 10 top-end hotels and as many guesthouses, many of them moderately expensive, but plenty of lower-priced rooms have become available in the last few years. Most of the accommodation is in central Vientiane. You can eat at cafes, street stalls, beer halls or restaurants, offering everything from rice noodles to filet mignon. For good Lao meals, try the Dong Palan Night Market on the east bank of the Nong Chan ponds.

Vientiane is not the illicit entertainment palace it was in the early 1970s: brothels are now prohibited, the marijuana stands have disappeared from the markets and beer has replaced opium as the nightly drug of choice. Entertainment ranges from live music and discos - usually electrified Lao folk music or Western pop - to Thai, Chinese, Indian and even Bulgarian films. Tribal crafts, fabrics, jewellery and furniture are all good buys in Vientiane. 

Luang Prabang

This 'city' is just barely waking from a long slumber brought on by decades of war and revolution. Luang Prabang has only 16,000 residents and few concessions to 20th-century living, save for infrequent electricity and a few cars and trucks. Rush hour occurs when school students are let out and the streets fill with bicycles.

Its main tourist attractions are its historic temples - 32 of the original 66 built before French colonisation still stand - and its lovely setting encircled by mountains at the confluence of the Khan and Mekong rivers. Sights include the Royal Palace Museum, Wat Xieng Thong and Wat Wisunlat. Just 25km (15.5mi) along the Mekong River are the famous Pak Ou caves, some of which are filled with Buddha images; 29km (18mi) south of the town are the beautiful Kuang Si waterfalls.

Plain of Jars

The mysterious Plain of Jars is an undeveloped area near Phonsavan in Xieng Khuang Province where huge jars of unknown origin are scattered, the biggest weighing as much as six tonnes (6.6 tons). The jars have been fashioned from solid stone, which doesn't seem to have come from the area. Many of the smaller jars have been taken away by collectors, but there are still several hundred in the five major groups. Thong Hai Hin, the biggest and most accessible site, has two pavilions and restrooms as well as the largest jar on the plain.

Ho Chi Minh Trail

For those interested in war history, the Ho Chi Minh Trail is a network of dirt paths and gravel roads running parallel to the Laos-Vietnam border. The trail was used by the North Vietnamese in the Vietnam War and by the Viet Minh against the French in the 1950s. Although the North Vietnamese denied the existence of the trail, and the USA denied bombing it, 1.1 million tons of explosives were dropped on the area between 1965 and '69, as well as massive quantities of herbicides. The trail is fairly remote, so there's been little in the way of tidying up: you'll see helicopters, fighter planes and a whole heap of other war junk. The closest town is Sepon, about 600km (370mi) south-east of Vientiane. Sepon was flattened during the war, and its now little more than a collection of shacks. You can get there by bus from Savannakhet.

Bolaven Plateau

The Bolaven Plateau is a fertile area where Laven tribespeople grow some of the most highly-regarded coffee in the world. Fruit, cardamom and rattan are also grown here. The plateau is a centre of Mon-Khmer culture, with Alak, Katu, Ta-oy and Suay villages in the area. Katu and Alak groups live in circles of thatched houses and are known for their yearly buffalo sacrifice, the centrepiece of some pretty spectacular ceremonies. Alak, Katu and Lawae women traditionally tattooed their faces, but this custom is dying out. The plateau also has some lovely waterfalls: Tat Lo plunges into a large pool which is gorgeous for swimming.  

Activiteiten

Due to the underdeveloped tourist infrastructure in Laos, there are virtually no organised activities. For the adventurous and resourceful, this can be a real boon. The hilly nature of the country makes it perfect trekking territory, though overnight camping is not allowed; ask around towns for a local guide. Mountain-biking is the next best way to take advantage of the terrain; there are bikes for hire in Vientiane and Luang Prabang. On Don Khon, an island in the Mekong River, there's an interesting walk across the southern tip of the island, which offers the chance to see Irrawaddy dolphins in the late afternoon between December and May.

Geschiedenis

The country has long been occupied by migrating Thais (including Shans, Siamese and Lao) and slash-and-burn Hmong/Mien hill tribes. The first Lao principalities were consolidated in the 13th century following the invasion of south-west China by Kublai Khan's Mongol hordes. In the mid-14th century, a Khmer-sponsored warlord, Fa Ngum, combined a number of scattered principalities around Luang Prabang to form his own kingdom, Lan Xang ('a million elephants'). The kingdom initially prospered, but internal divisions and pressure from neighbours caused it to split in the 17th century into three warring kingdoms centred on Luang Prabang, Wieng Chan (Vientiane) and Champasak.

By the end of the 18th century, most of Laos came under Siamese (Thai) suzerainty but the territory was also being pressured by Vietnam. Unable or unwilling to serve two masters, the country went to war with Siam in the 1820s. This disastrous ploy led to all three kingdoms falling under Thai control. By the late 19th century, France had established French Indochina in the Vietnamese provinces of Tonkin and Annam. The Thais eventually ceded all of Laos to the French, who were content to use the territory merely as a buffer between its colonial holdings and Siam.

During WWII, the Japanese occupied Indochina and a Lao resistance group, Lao Issara, was formed to prevent the return of the French. Independence was achieved in 1953 but conflict persisted between royalist, neutralist and communist factions. The USA began bombing North Vietnamese troops on the Ho Chi Minh Trail in eastern Laos in 1964, escalating conflict between the royalist Vientiane government and the communist Pathet Lao who fought alongside the North Vietnamese. By the time a ceasefire was negotiated in 1973, Laos had the dubious distinction of being the most bombed country in the history of warfare.

A coalition government was formed, but when Saigon fell in 1975, most of the royalists left for France. The Pathet Lao peacefully took control of the country and the Lao People's Democratic Republic came into being in December 1975. Laos remained closely allied with the Vietnamese communists throughout the 1980s. Although many private businesses were closed down after 1975, there has been a relaxation of rules since 1989, and the move towards a market economy has led to a small-scale economic revival. Laos cemented ties with its neighbours when it was welcomed into ASEAN in July 1997. In 1998 former prime minister Khamtai became president.

By the late 1990s, the economy was in such poor shape - having experienced inflation of over 100 per cent and a depreciation of the kip by more than 500 per cent - that the resolutely socialist country did something that they'd never done before. They devised a 'Visit Laos' campaign in order to attract the tourist dollar. Although not an overwhelming success, the kip has been dragged back from its death bed and inflation reined in a little. Perhaps more significantly, there have been unofficial reports of disaffected Laotians rattling the chains of the Politburo and hard liners of the draconian Lao People's Revolutionary Party.

Cultuur

About 60% of Lao, mainly the lowland Lao and a sprinkling of Thai tribes, are Theravada Buddhists. Every Lao Buddhist male is expected to become a monk for a short period of his life, usually between school and starting a career or getting married. The main non-Buddhist 'religion' is phii worship, a spirit cult which is officially banned. Hmong/Mien tribes practise animism and ancestral worship, and some follow a Christian version of the cargo cult, believing Jesus Christ will arrive in a jeep, dressed in combat fatigues. A small number of Lao - mostly the French-educated elite - are Christians.

The official language of Laos is Lao, as spoken and written in Vientiane. As an official language, it has successfully become the lingua franca between all Lao and non-Lao ethnic groups in Laos. There are five main dialects in the country, each of which can be divided into further subdialects. All Lao dialects are closely related to the languages spoken in Thailand, northern Myanmar and pockets of China's Yunnan Province.

Traditional culture in Laos has been heavily influenced by various strains of Khmer, Vietnamese and Thai cultures. The lowland Lao share the same ancestry as many Thai tribes, so the similarities between Lao and Thai culture are especially strong. This can be seen in Lao sculpture, classical music, dance-dramas and cuisine. Lao folk music is more indigenous, based around the khaen (a double row of bamboo reeds fitted into a hardwood sound box). Folk music is often accompanied by dancing or bawdy theatre. The focus of most traditional art has been primarily religious and includes wats (temples), stupas and several distinctively Lao representations of Buddha. The Lao remain skilful carvers and weavers, but traditional silversmithing and goldsmithing are declining arts.

Rice is the foundation for all Lao meals, and almost all dishes are cooked with fresh ingredients such as vegetables, freshwater fish, poultry, duck, pork, beef or water buffalo. Lime juice, lemon grass and fresh coriander give the food its characteristic tang, and various fermented fish concoctions are used to salt the food. Hot chillies, garlic, mint, ground peanuts, tamarind juice, ginger and coconut milk are other seasonings. Dishes are often served with an accompanying plate of lettuce, mint, coriander, mung-bean sprouts, lime wedges or basil - diners then create their own lettuce-wrapped tidbits.

Milieu en klimaat

Laos is bordered by Thailand, Cambodia, Vietnam, China and Myanmar (Burma). Rivers and mountains dominate the country's topography. The largest river, the Mekong (Nam Khong), runs the entire length of the country, providing fertile flood plains for agriculture and forming the country's border with Thailand. It is also Laos' main transportation artery.

Over 70 per cent of the country consists of mountains and plateaus. The Annamite Chain, bordering Vietnam, runs parallel to the Mekong for half the length of the country. The rugged mountains average between 1500-3000m (4920-9840ft) in height, and at their southern extremity open up to form the Bolaven Plateau, a 10,000 sq km (6200 sq m) area that produces mountain rice, coffee, tea and other high-altitude crops. The highest mountain is Phu Bia (2819m/9246ft) in northern Laos.

Two-thirds of Laos is forested and only 10 per cent of the country is considered suitable for agriculture. Given the topography, it is fortunate that Laos has one of the lowest population densities in Asia - around 18 people per sq km (about 11 per sq mi). Most of the population is settled along fertile river valleys, although there are many small tribes living in the hills. The largest population centres, Vientiane and Savannakhet, are both in the Mekong River Valley; 85 per cent of the population lives in rural areas.

Despite large-scale bombing and the use of defoliants in the eastern section of the country during the US war with Vietnam, Laos has one of the most pristine ecologies in South-East Asia. Vegetation consists primarily of varieties associated with monsoon forests such as teak, Asian rosewood and bamboo. About 50 per cent of the country is covered with primary forest and another 30 per cent with secondary growth. The forests are endangered by illegal logging and slash-and-burn agriculture.

Endemic animals include the concolor gibbon, snub-nosed langur, lesser panda and raccoon dog. Exotic species found in neighbouring countries are usually found in greater numbers in Laos because of the forest cover and fewer hunters. They include the Javan mongoose, Siamese hare, leopard cat, tiger, Irrawaddy dolphin, and a few Javan rhinos thought to survive in the Bolaven Plateau. There are 17 recently-opened Biodiversity Conservation Areas scattered throughout the country.

The annual Asian monsoon cycle gives Laos two distinct seasons: May to October is wet, and November to April is dry. Temperatures vary according to altitude. In the Mekong River Valley, the highest temperatures occur between March and April (38°C/100°F) and the lowest between December and January (15°C/59°F). During most of the rainy season, daytime temperatures average around 29°C (84°F) in the lowlands and 25°C (77°F) in the mountain valleys.

Land en volk

The total area is 236.800 sq km. Mountains and plateaus cover well over 70% of the country, more than half of the country is forest and woodland. The Mekong river plays a major role, running a third (1500 km) of it's total lengh through Laos. Landlocked Laos shares borders with Burma, Cambodia, China, Thailand and Vietnam.Today about 5 million people live in Laos. The population density in Laos is very low with only 19 people per sqare kilometer (Germany 246, Great Britain 237, Thailand 120). The county's ethnic mix consists of 68 different minorities. About half the population are Lao Loum (low-land Lao). The three main ethnic groups are distinguished by the height they live at, the time they migrated to Laos and by other cultural and traditional characteristics. The bigger part of the population lives at subsistence level in small villages scattered throughout the country.

Theravada (Hinayana) Buddhism is the dominating religion in Laos. Laos is the least developed and most enigmatic of the three former French Indochinese states. A ruinous sequence of colonial domination, internecine conflict and dogmatic socialism finally brought the country to its knees in the 1970s, and almost ten per cent of the population left. Now, after two decades of isolation from the outside world, this landlocked, sparsely populated country is enjoying peace, stabilising its political and economic structures and admitting foreign visitors - albeit in limited numbers due to a general lack of infrastructure

The lack of foreign influence offers travellers an unparalleled glimpse of traditional South-East Asian life. From the fertile lowlands of the Mekong River valley to the rugged Annamite highlands, travellers who have made it to Laos tend to agree that this country is the highlight of South-East Asia.

The Bolaven Plateau is a fertile area where Laven tribespeople grow some of the most highly-regarded coffee in the world. Fruit, cardamom and rattan are also grown here. The plateau is a centre of Mon-Khmer culture, with Alak, Katu, Ta-oy and Suay villages in the area. Katu and Alak groups live in circles of thatched houses and are known for their yearly buffalo sacrifice, the centrepiece of some pretty spectacular ceremonies. Alak, Katu and Lawae women traditionally tattooed their faces, but this custom is dying out. The plateau also has some lovely waterfalls: Tat Lo plunges into a large pool which is gorgeous for swimming.

Klimaat

Tropical monsoon climate with rainy season from May to November (south-west monsoon). A good time for travel is the dry season from December to April. From November to February the bypassing north-east monsoon creates relatively low temperatures. A warm pullover can be very useful, especially for early morning bus or boat rides.

Godsdienst

Theravada (Hinayana) Buddhism is the dominating religion in Laos.

Economie

Despite its mineral, wood and hydroelectric power resources Laos is one of the poorest countries in South-East Asia. Agriculture, fishing and forestry provide 80% of the jobs. About 7% of total land area is used for agriculture, most of it for family owned rice plantations, mainly in the Mekong river valley and its fertile floodplains. Other cash crops are cotton, tobacco, fruits, vegetables, tea, coffee. Opium probably still is the country's biggest export earner. For many of the northern hilltribes opium is, although the government supports crop substitution programmes, the only source of income.

Wood products are important for export. Due to the lack of infrastructure, exploitation of mineral resources is still on a very low level. Electricity from the Nam Ngum dam is sold to Thailand, many additional hydropower plants are planned.

Compared to Thailand or Vietnam, the number of tourists is still relative low, but tourism is already an important economical factor for the country. After the "Visit Laos Year 1999" numbers of foreign visitors are expected to rise sharply.

Laos has been and still is dependant on foreign aid, in some years more than 50% of the national budget. Economy after the 1975 communist takeover wasn't really working well. After some years free enterprise was partly allowed at village level. In 1989, private foreign investment was allowed. Private land ownership is guaranteed by constitution and many people were given back seized land and houses. The results have been striking - growth has averaged 7.5% annually since 1988.